2021.10.21 14:57 Amazing_Awareness_19 YT

Hi everyone, I hope you're all doing ok. I wanted to ask something and hope to get some response or interest from you (LOL): So I'm seriously thinking on starting a YouTube channel. It would be about different interesting topics revolving around social sciences. So just to give you an idea I could maybe do videos about China, Hong Kong protests, geography, some 20th century historical topics, Venezuela's situation, politics, geopolitics, etc. I'm an undergraduate student, and I got inspired by channels like Real Life Lore, Caspian Report, VisualPolitik, among many others. But my idea is to cover a more wide and varied set of topics among these areas of interest. But for this to work I really would want to know if people are interested, would you be willing to give it a try, do you watch stuff like this, etcetera?
Hoping I can get some answers, I kindly say bye and wait for the comments to roll in...
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2021.10.21 14:57 rivergame This Nuglet I found

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2021.10.21 14:57 Xipherisroot Thermal Pads and Thermal Paste - A Guide

I’m not particularly involved in the Dell G5 5505 community, I’m not one for Discord and I feel generally out of place on subreddits like these, however I like to leave little contributions here and there.
This is a guide on replacing the thermal pads and paste of your Dell G5 5505 that also touches on a few other tweaks and misc bits of useful information.
I take no responsibility or liability for issues you encounter if you follow this guide, you follow it at your own risk, I assume no responsibility for your actions and I offer it only in good faith. I cannot weigh in on whether or not performing any actions included in this guide will or will not invalidate any guarantees or warranties expressed or not on the hardware as a whole its its components individually nor can I guarantee how these modifications will affect the operation of the system or issues that may arise from performing them.
Why should you listen to me?
I’ve been steeped in computer performance and cooling for over 21 years, when I first started doing this sort of thing 3DCool was still taking a hole saw to generic beige box full ATX cases to make their Tornado series, skive fin copper heatsinks were astonishing, Swiftech was water cooling, putting a Delta fan on a PAL Alpha heatsink was considered a hard core setup, I remember the Thermasonic Thermoengine hollow/solid controversy, manufactures did weird things like the Heatronics Zen with heatpipes full of actual refrigerant, and phase change cooling meant a compressor in an aluminum box under your PC with lines and a cold plate to your CPU. In general I’ve watched the evolution of the industry and played with lots of toys through the years, I like to cut through the bullshit and hype, I’ve lived the hype, hype is done.
When it comes to the Dell G5 5505, I own one and I’ve been at least partially responsible for the purchase of at least 5 of them in the last few months by various people both local and abroad. I’ve worked hands on with 3 separate systems locally, 1 of them came all the way from the other coast of the US to get the work performed, I’ve also walked someone with absolutely base line zero technical knowledge or skill through this procedure over the phone from 2,300 miles away over 3.5 hours to great success. Frankly the only reason I haven’t helped the 5th person who’s also a few thousand miles away is due to their time constraints. I have a little experience with multiple of the same models and I’ve seen some unique issues and some constants in the issues as well, what I’m drawing from is not experience with a single unit, it is multiple units across multiple build months.
Tools, supplies, you, and your Dell G5 5505.

• No 1 X-Acto knife (No 2 also acceptable if you have stiff fingers/joints/etc) • Cutting Mat (Self Healing rubber type recommended) • Rotary Cutter (Optional) • Precision screw driver kit Inc 0 and 00 Phillips bits • Old(?) Clean Soft Toothbrush 
• ArtiClean Thermal Interface Remover (Optional) • 91% rubbing alcohol or greater concentration • 1.0mm Thermal Pad (Recommend 100x100mm sheet for ease/economy) • 1.5mm Thermal Pad (Recommend 100x100mm sheet for ease/economy) • 2.0mm Thermal Pad (Recommend 100x100mm sheet for ease/economy) • 2.5mm Thermal Pad (Recommend 100x100mm sheet for ease/economy) • 4.0mm Thermal Pad (Recommend 100x100mm sheet for ease/economy) • High Temperature Stable Thermal Paste (Recommend Arctic MX-5) • Flitz Metal Polish or Blue Magic Metal Polish (Optional) • Premium Paper Towels (A lot of them, no, more than you think you need) • Polyimide/Kapton Tape(Optional) 
You will need to follow the directions outlined, I will provide the methods I use as well as alternatives and explanations of them when applicable, you will need to decide for yourself the methods you wish to use after the directions, examples and methods are provided and explained, there are multiple right answers because the question can be conditional.
Your Dell G5 5505:
Should be clean and on a well lit, tidy work surface at least 4 times its size, you will be disassembling this system to a point and thus you will need both room to put the computer its self, its components, your supplies, tools, and a space you feel comfortable working with sharp implements, sensitive electronics and hazardous chemicals all in the same general vicinity. Use your head and plan out a proper space to perform these activities.
Lets go over those tools in depth with examples of what to purchase and probably an (unaffiliated) Amazon link to purchase it:
This is a Number 1 X-Acto brand hobby knife, it is very very sharp. I recommend getting a real X-Acto knife because many third party manufactures have poor quality blades and exceptionally poor blade retention mechanism, the last thing you want to do is get a blade jammed in your knuckle or something. You can buy one here, it costs around $6 USD
This is a self healing cutting board, its large and fairly firm which helps you use it as a work space, its cheap, 12x9 is a good size, shop around for a good price, buy whats cheap. You can buy one here, it costs around $6.50 USD
This is a rotary cutter, it helps you cut straight lines quickly and easily, if you have unsteady hands or stiff finger joints etc, this is nicer to use for long straight cuts than a hobby knife, I like this slide-safety style more than the squeeze style because again, if your hands hurt, this is nice to use. You can buy one here, it costs around $10 USD
This is a precision screw driver kit, it includes other useful things, if you are going to buy one you may as well get the most bang for your buck. These kits are cheap, multiple people rebrand them, you’ll mostly just need the 1, 0, and 00 Philips bits. You can buy one here, it costs around $16 USD
This is a toothbrush, I hope this is not a revelation to you, you can use an old toothbrush but please clean it with rubbing alcohol before hand, a medium to soft bristle brush is strongly suggested over a firm one. A tooth brush can be had at nearly any general store for at times a single US dollar or less, it doesn’t need to be fancy, it shouldn’t have rubber scrubbers.
Now lets go over some supplies:
This is ArctiClean, its a two part cleaner for thermal interface materials, if you look at the MSDS’s of both bottles they’re nothing special but getting the chemicals in a bulk form is not as easy as just buying this. These have been around forever, they work better for a specific use case than rubbing alcohol and that use case is emulsifying thermal compounds and getting a literally squeaky clean surface. You can buy it here, it costs around $10 USD
This is 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, or, rubbing alcohol, yes you need this even if you have ArctiClean, no you won’t use a lot of it, no 70% isn’t ‘just as good’, please use 91% or greater. A 32oz bottle is around $2.60 USD at most general stores.
This is a 100x100mm thermal pad, you will need them in the thickness outlined in the required supplies. I strongly recommend non-fabric reinforced thermal pads, in fact I strongly recommend using exceptionally soft thermal pads, reasons for this will be outlined in the supplemental section at the end of this guide. Thermal pads vary wildly in cost however in my experience boutique thermal pads rarely make more difference than a run-to-run variance error until you get to very thick pads, if its less than 3mm you are looking at 1-1.5C at the most for a decent pad. I buy a lot of these, they’re very soft and they work great: various sizes at various costs.
This is thermal paste, there are many thermal pastes with many different unique properties, strengths and weaknesses, there is no one size fits all and nothing is ‘the best’. For this application you need a thermal paste that will not degrade in sustained high temperatures, many non-silicone base pastes operate pretty well in the 90+C sustained loads they can see in laptops, Arctic MX-5 is silicone based but has proven to be particularly durable under high sustained temperatures. I won’t say more regarding thermal interface choices to avoid bickering. Thermal paste is cheap, 4 grams of Arctic MX-5 is $9 US at the moment and available for purchase here, it’ll be way more than you need for this.
This is Flitz, its a cheap and relatively safe metal polish that you can find almost anywhere, personally I perfer BlueMagic Metal Polish Cream but its harder to find, slightly less forgiving and a bit more caustic. This stuff is great for putting a little polish on a copper heatsink or heatsinks in general, it gets rid of any oxidation or tarnish, you’ll see people who do a lot of delidding and more extreme level stuff use this sort of thing for surface prep. You can get it here, costs around $7-$8 USD for more than you’ll ever need
These are paper towels, I can’t recommend you use very cheap paper towels, the more fibrous and ‘fabric’ like premium paper towels tend to work better for what you’ll be doing with them because you want them to stay together and you also don’t want the ‘paper towel dust’ that tends to shed from cheaper products. You can get these at nearly any general store, prices vary wildly but they’re exceptionally cheap, expect to pay less than $5-8 USD for a two pack with scales of economy working heavily towards larger counts.
This is Polyimide tape, often referred to as Kapton tape, it is highly temperature resistant and not particularly conductive either. You can get some 20mm wide Polyimide tape here, its about $8 USD for two 108ft rolls, you’ll probably never run out
Breaking into the G5 without breaking the G5
I’m not reinventing the wheel, lets take a page literally out of Dell’s factory service manual for the Dell G5 5505.
Loosen the four captive screws that secure the base cover to the palm-rest and keyboard assembly. (Xipher’s notes: Top screws, marked in RED, FYI.) Remove the six screws (M2x7) that secure the base cover to the palm-rest and keyboard assembly.
Starting from the top-left corner, use a plastic scribe to pry the base cover in the direction of the arrows to release the base cover from the palm-rest and keyboard assembly. Pry the base cover and turn it over. Disconnect the LED cable from the system board, if applicable. (Xipher’s note: It shouldn’t be.)
Using the pull tab, disconnect the battery cable from the system board. (Xipher’s note: That means use the black fabric ‘flag’ on the battery connector to pull it straight back towards the battery, do not pull it ‘up’ or wriggle it left and right, straight back only, removal of the whole battery is not necessary, just disconnect it.) Turn your computer over and press the power button for 15 seconds to drain the flea power. (Xipher’s note: This is a strange translation and should not be required, presented here as it is in the manual.)
Opening Pandora’s Box to reveal the manufacture mistakes
From Dell’s factory service manual again.
In the reverse sequential order (8>7>6>5>4>3>2>1), loosen the eight captive screws that secure the heat sink to the system board. (Xipher’s note: The screws are captive with retainers that can come loose with repeated use, be careful, do not lose a screw, a retainer, or a spring. Wear from repeated removal and installation WILL create conductive dust, you should not need to, nor should you be constantly removing and installing the heatsink.) (Xipher’s notes: Please note that these instructions are INCORRECT, there will be a 9th screw to remove near the battery connector that is not mentioned in the FSM, it is NOT CAPTIVE, it is important.) Lift the heat sink off the system board.
Getting down to business
This is what should greet you on the opposite side of the heatsink once you’ve gotten it off(Note, one aqua pad is missing in this photo!), take note that all 15 thermal pads have come off the hardware cleanly, if not you will need to gently remove them. Commonly the 4 pads in the top left area of the heatsink (those not for GPU memory) and all of the aqua pads on the bottom right will have been incorrectly installed from the factory and will retain clear plastic between the heatsink and thermal pad, this plastic may be melted, we’ll get back to this.
Great, now, set that heatsink aside, you’ll work on that in a moment, you’ll be working on the CPU and GPU first because if you somehow get any fluid under the chips you want to give it a lot of time to let it air out and evaporate while you work on other things, there is a rhyme to my reason.
Use a paper towel to gently clean any thermal paste off of the metal around the edges of the CPU and GPU (the CPU is the smaller rectangular chip, the GPU is the larger square chip, with the battery nearest to you, that's GPU left, CPU right.) then try to gently remove what you can from the very center, the shiny raised square sections, thats the die of the chip. Be very careful not to catch the paper towel on anything between the metal edge of the chip, and the die in the center.
Take a toothbrush cleaned and dried with alcohol and gently brush between the die in the center and the metal at the outside edge of the chip to dislodge the bulk of the paste that made it off of the die its self and onto the IC’s of the substrate (those are the tiny raised dots you see on the green circuit board stuff). Clean the tooth brush with alcohol and a paper towel if it becomes clogged, its a good thing if the toothbrush catches and removes much of the stiff old paste.
Once you’ve gently removed what you can of the stiff paste by way of paper towel and dry(mildly damp at most) tooth brush, apply part one of ArtiClean to the die and the green area between the die and the metal edge of the chip, DO NOT CREATE A MOAT. You only need enough to ‘wet’ the remaining thermal paste, 4-5 drops for each chip is more than sufficient. Wait approximately 1 minute for the thermal paste to emulsify.
You may now do one of two things at you discretion depending on the severity of how ‘cooked’ the paste is:
You can either use the dry brush to gently agitate the paste and see if it is easily dislodged, if it is, it should also easily be caught in the brushes and lifted away in ‘chunks’.
Regardless of if you use a brush, the next step is the same.
Take a dry fresh paper towel, press DOWN on the areas with emulsified thermal paste, DO NOT BRUSH/SCRUB LEFT AND RIGHT, UP OR DOWN, simply gently, press down and let the paper towel soak up the remaining fluid then lift straight up, the paper towel should capture a good amount of the emulsified paste.
Repeat the above steps with 91% alcohol, DO NOT use so much alcohol that it escape past the metal edges of the chips. I recommend putting a few drops of rubbing alcohol on the tooth brush after its been ‘cleaned’ each time and brushing gently, then dabbing the results up with a paper towel.
Once you have gotten the chips both clean, use a clean DRY paper towel and gently rub each die until it it shows little to no residue. Apply ArtiClean part 2 to the die, ONLY THE DIE, use a clean dry paper towel to gently remove the ArtiClean part 2 from the die of the chip, it should now be a mirror finish and the chip its self should be clean, your results should like like the below example at this point.
(If you are interested in applying liquid metal at this point, please see the supplemental section at the end of this guide for further information on the steps to take at this point before you continue!)
Sinking time into the heat sink
With the CPU and the GPU both cleaned and prepped, its time to turn your attention to the heatsink its self.
First thing is first, with a dry paper towel, wipe as much dry stiff thermal paste off of the copper plates that contact the CPU and GPU as possible, ArtiClean part 1 is generally not needed much here if at all, the paste does not tend to adhere as strongly to the copper as it does to the chips and the remains should be able to be wiped off with an alcohol damped paper towel.
Its time to take a photo, set the heatsink down and take a photo of it, you may also want to take up close photos that show the individually grouped up thermal pads as well. You are doing this for two reasons, first you shouldn’t just rely on the photos I provide here as means to sanity check your own work, for your own peace of mind take a photo of everything ‘before’ to compare to the after. The second reason you may want to inspect the pads closely and take photos of the individual groups is due to the wildly varying manufacturing tolerances at play in this device, you want to see what pads have what indents from what components and how deep those indents are. One of the G5 5505’s I recently worked on was making next to no contact to the inductors of the GPU VRM stages, no indents, no contact, you have the system apart to fix these issues so identify them now.
Its time to remove the thermal pads, and I recommend doing so in a gentle fashion. The yellow pads for video memory should come off cleanly as well as the one grey pad for the same memory, and in doing so you’ll identify the quality of the casting for your specific heatsink, the quality varies WILDLY. If you can cleanly read the text “ORANGE 26.5x14.5x1mm” or “ORANGE 14x12x1” you probably have a much cleaner casting than most people, see the below photos for a ‘clean’ casting example.
Moving on, all the remaining pads may have clear plastic between them and the surface of the heatsink, you can use a fingernail to try and get under the edge of the pad and remove the plastic and pad all at once, if the plastic has melted from excessive heat, you may need to work at it, resist the urge to use pointed tools or scraping to avoid damaging the surface.
You should have a nice clean heatsink that looks a lot like the following photo (Note the 4MM pads have not been removed in the following photo):
Please note that the factory thickness (if your casting is clean enough to read) is noted for each pad where it is intended to sit, we’ll use this as a loose guide, this guide assumes you are using SOFT thermal pads, if you are using FIRM thermal pads you will need to use a little of your own deduction to find the best fit.
Now is a good time to use a fresh paper towel and rubbing alcohol to clean all mating surfaces of the heatsink, you may notice a lot of black paint over spray coming off with the alcohol, this is fine, this is a good thing, paint is not a good heat conductor.
(OPTIONAL, WARNING CONTROVERSIAL STEP BELOW! See supplemental at end of document for more information.) At this point it you may want to take some of the Flitz, apply it to a paper that you’ve folded over multiple times and start to rub in circular motions over the entirety of the copper plates, do not use a Dremel, do not use power tools, simply rub in a circular motion to polish the copper, you should notice it brighten considerably and you should be able to achieve a finish which you can see yourself in head on like a mirror within 5-10 minutes of light effort. After polishing you’ll need to clean the heatsink again thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and I recommend ArtiClean part 2 as a follow up. (End of CONTROVERSIAL step)
There are two schools of thought for thermal pads, neither is right or wrong because its all situational and depends on the goals to be accomplished, but one is born out of penny pinching and the other isn’t.
You can either cut EXACT sizes for things such as the video memory chips and set them directly on the chips (do not use the guide lines on the heatsink, they do not line up well at all as you will have already noticed from your old pads imprints) which is a method born out of factory assembly and materials cost consideration, or, you can do it the easy way which has some added benefits to be explained and expanded on in the supplemental section at the end of this guide.
No photo for the above since the factory pads are a great example of the above and show the inherent difficulties and some of the deficiencies of said method.
You can color outside the lines within reason, use the heatsink guide lines as a rough guide of the MINIMUM area to cover and extend from there so long as there is no other obstruction to guarantee component coverage. This is the method I recommend for a number of reasons, the first being that frankly its easy and the materials are fairly inexpensive, also the method is effective and manufactures themselves have largely moved to unified pad layouts instead of individual as component density has increased and heat output has condensed. Please see the supplemental section for some thoughts and reasons as to of why this approach can be a good one.
Here is an example of a quick and simple layout of thermal pads on the heatsink with labels for the thicknesses used. (Note that the overlap over the screw bosses at the bottom left of the heatsink were trimmed prior to final installation! Also the missing pad for the video ram at the top will be explained when that is reached.)
You may note that the thickness of pads I’m using in the photo above goes both against the factory thickness and the discourse in this subreddit. To be fank, I have 4 separate G5 5505’s with these pad thicknesses on them and all of them have and continue to have great thermal results, again, I am using very soft pads, the pads I use are more like putty than firm pads, they are very forgiving. To expand on why I’m using a thicker than stock (0.75mm stock) such as 1.0mm for the GPU inductors is that at least one of the laptops I worked on was making ZERO contact with said inductors, a thicker pad was needed. No, the 4mm pads are not too thick, on the same laptop the 4mm pads were barely making contact with the chokes of the VRM stages, the manufacturing tolerances on the heatsinks are not good and so you need to approach each one differently and you need to use pads that give you proper wriggle room for proper fitment.
Either way, your job now is to use the suggested tools and supplies to cut pads that either match those you removed and thus are put back where they went before, or, use the photo above as an example of how to ensure coverage while not having to put in all too much time. I recommend opening ONE thickness of pads and cutting all of that thickness to apply to the heatsink, checking against your before photo of the heatsink and pads as well as the thickness guide above, put each thickness away before working on the next in order to minimize using the wrong thickness for the pads you are currently cutting and placing.
Addressing the missing 1.5MM pad for the remaining video memory chips and why its not pictures on the heatsink, the guidelines on the heatsink are far off the mark, its better to cut the pad to fit the space between the components that may interfere near by, see the photo below for an example.
At this point you need to perform the first overall sanity check on the project, compare the coverage you have with your new thermal pads to the photos you took before you removed the original thermal pads, compare your layout to the layout I’ve provided as an example in the thickness guide, if you don’t have something covered, figure out why before you continue.
The second sanity check, without putting any thermal paste on the CPU or GPU, mount the heatsink and tighten all the screws. Press down (somewhat gently) on the area where the GPU, then the CPU should contact the heatsink, do you feel it making contact with the die of the chip or do you feel it ‘clicking’ down onto the die? If its firm, you can stop here, if its ‘clicking’ down onto either die, remove the heatsink and check your thermal pad thickness, the deepest indents are likely going to be your guide to the problem areas.
The third sanity check, remove the heatsink fully, is there an imprint of a component in each thermal pad? Does it roughly match the type of imprint from the photo of the original pads? Is it making more, or less contact? Do you need to adjust its position to make proper contact? Make your adjustments now.
The OPTIONAL fourth sanity check for the paranoid and the untrusting. Apply a VERY small drop of thermal paste onto the center of the die of the GPU and the CPU, install the heatsink fully, tighten all the screws, then loosen all screws and remove the heatsink, is there a contact patch with the CPU and GPU from where the thermal paste was? Did it spread out flat? Is there evidence that the CPU and GPU made direct or nearly direct contact with the heatsink? If yes, good, if no, check your pad thickness and adjust as necessary until you make contact with the CPU and GPU while also still making contact with all components the thermal pads are intended to cover.
Perform any final cleaning on the CPU die, the GPU die, and the copper contact patches of the heatsink, apply a small ‘rice grain’ or ‘pea shape’ amount of thermal paste to the die of the CPU and GPU, do not apply thermal paste to the heatsink. The photo below shows what would be considered “more than an ample amount” of thermal paste.
Very carefully line up the heatsink to the screw holes without letting it touch the thermal paste on the GPU and GPU dies until aligned, use a finger roughly where each die is on the back of the heatsink to hold it with some gentle pressure as you use your other hand to tighten the screws in order 1 through 8, then the 9th screw near the battery connector, after doing so remove your fingers from the back of the heatsink.
OPTIONAL Sadly I don’t have any photos of this, however you may want to put a little Polyimide tape over where the fan and the fins of the heatsink meet, just bridge the gap with it on all 3 sides you can see, this just helps direct air through the fins a little better. A number of people on this subreddit have expressed doing this with electrical tape, etc, I strongly recommend using something like Polyimide that will take the heat instead, its thin enough to do the job and looks nearly factory installed if done right, the adhesive nor the tape will melt and leave a mess after a while.
OPTIONAL This completely depends on a number of factors but there is one more thing I can recommend as absolutely silly as it seems. If you use a forced air cooling pad and/or you do not use the laptop in your lap, you can eek out what probably equates to an extra 0.5C on a good day by putting a 1.5MM(if I remember right) thermal pad where the heatpipes run along the fins of the heatsink, just thick enough to seal the gap between the plastic bottom cover and that area of the heatsink. It doesn’t hurt, but it does help with the air gap, and while it won’t melt the plastic there (trust me, I’ve tested it for months) it will make that area of the plastic much warmer, however if you use a cooling pad you will be sinking a tiny bit more heat into the body of the laptop which air is blowing over and it will provide a small free ‘boost’. I find that NVME 2280 size thermal pads work fantastic here and I generally have a big bag of all different thicknesses of those sitting around.
Reconnect the battery by pushing the connector forward straight into its receptacle, reattach the bottom plate of the laptop and feel around the edges to make sure all of the plastic snaps latch back together completely.
All problems come to an end
Congratulations, you just swapped the thermal paste and thermal pads on your Dell G5 5505 laptop, enjoy improved stability, higher sustained clocks and current draw coupled with whats generally a significant long term load performance boost.
At this point if you choose to disable SmartShift and control your CPU and GPU power tables manually you are ready to go, I may write a guide pulling from the community posts on this at a later date, depends on the reception this guide gets, my free time and my will to do this work in general.
Hello, this is the supplemental section, this is where I outline and cover a few things not directly covered in the guide to keep it from going too far off the rails, its also apparently where I look at the document and think to myself “Is 5,000 words enough? No, probably not, I need to keep suffering so lets keep this train’a rolling!”
The first thing I’d like to cover is the elephant in the room, liquid metal and why I didn’t cover it in this guide directly.
Since you should be reading this guide in whole before you embark on your thermal adventure, I’d like you to find a straight edge and while you have your heatsink off and clean, I’d like you to put your straight edge across the intersection where the GPU and CPU dies touch their respective copper plates. You see that light creeping through the gap? That's the problem. The manufacturing tolerances on the heatsinks used in these laptops is horrific, all 3 I’ve personally done were concave over the CPU die and not at all ‘flat’ in any sense of the word for either the CPU or GPU copper plates in general, and frankly there isn’t enough material to lap it to get it flat without reducing clamping pressure to too great of a degree. Using liquid metal on a heatsink that struggles to make decent ‘flat’ contact is just not going to yield desirable results in the long term, I cannot recommend it, but if you want to give it a go, check your heatsink for flatness with a straight edge thoroughly before embarking on the endeavor, your mileage may vary.
In further regards to liquid metal and as its mentioned to see the supplemental after cleaning the CPU and GPU, if you plan on using liquid metal, please use a high temp conformal coating on the IC’s that surround both dies, if you cannot find conformal coating, you may try of all things Sally Hansen Color Therapy 001 Clear Top Coat Nail Polish, its been proven non-corrosive, non-conductive, and resistant to near by high heat loads, its a cheap ($7 USD) alternative that dries fast and lasts.
I like liquid metal, I have liquid metal in multiple other laptops and I’m satisfied with its performance, I simply cannot recommend it for this system due to the surfaces I’ve seen on the heatsinks.
Lets address K5 Pro in place of thermal pads. K5 Pro pumps out at high sustained temperatures, this is seen as ‘boiling’ marks, multiple communities have found this and lets just say that air is a poor conductor, so air pockets are not what you want in your thermal interface material. The other problem is that K5 Pro is messy, difficult to work with for beginners, hard to clean properly, and frankly it doesn’t seem to work much better than a decent modern thermal pad in a proper application. Compounding the prior issues mentioned, K5 Pro can be a lot harder for people to obtain than a decent thermal pad or prohibitively expensive for its limited application in many markets if its available at all.
Polishing a heatsink, this makes a lot of people unreasonably angry these days but I’m going to put it out there in a simple manner. You want as much direct contact as you can get between the source of heat and the sinking mechanism, there’s two schools of thought there, one says that a matt finish on a heatsink provides more ‘surface area’ for the heat, the other says the more direct the contact, the better. The flaw with thinking of ‘surface area’ relating to a CPU die’s interface to a heatsink is that any imperfections are filled in with the thermal interface material, something which has a much higher thermal resistance than metal directly contacting the silicone, the ‘surface area’ of a matt finish heatsink is all filled with TIM that resists transferring heat more than the metal its self making direct contact. The smoother the finish, the less imperfections the thermal interface material has to fill in to make that full contact to the silicone the better. Since the heatsinks for these laptops are generally not very flat, you won’t get much direct contact, but you may as well give it the best chance it can and give that TIM the least imperfections to try and fill.
Having said what I said in relation to polishing, I’d also like to remind you that when it comes to filling gaps with a thermal pad, you will never get direct contact, its a different animal. Heat output is a 3 dimensional thing, its not 2 dimensional, people like to ensure coverage on one surface, but I’d like to remind you that a lot of IC’s such as the GDDR6 for the RX 5600M in the G5 5505 are flip chips, they sink a lot of heat towards the PCB. There is a benefit from encapsulating IC’s with thermal interfaces to help spread this heat, and spreading heat out is one of the things you want to do, draw it away from its source and sink it into something to dissipate it. If your thermal pad catches the top, the sides, even a bit of the PCB surrounding a chip firmly and completely, it has the best chance to get the most heat from the source and draw it away into the dissipation mechanism. Think about why graphics card manufactures have started to resort to putting thermal pads sinking the back side of memory modules and VRM stages to metal plates on the other side of the card, think about why many of them use much softer thermal pads that also cover the PCB space around many types of chips now on the higher end of heat outputs.
As a final thought for you to consider, you have to understand that when you increase the thermal conductivity between a heat dissipation device and a source, you can run into the limits to which the dissipation device can dissipate heat. By performing these modifications you are increasing the amount of heat you are putting into the heatsink in this laptop and that doesn’t mean the heat will magically go away, the heatsink is still only capable of dissipating a certain amount of heat. After you do these modifications, your VRM’s for example could be running cooler, but in doing so they’re increasing the overall heat going into the dissipation mechanism AS A WHOLE, the heatsink has to deal with multiple sources of heat, if one source suddenly sinks more heat, the heatsink will have to deal with dissipating more heat. You may end up with a more EVEN heat profile across your heat input sources, and putting heat into a heatsink more effectively is not a bad thing, however the heatsink has its limits and this is not a silver bullet that can overcome the basic laws of the physical world. If every heat source was perfectly coupled to the heatsink, every device would also be just as hot as that area of the heatsink, it will only move as much heat away as it physically can.
Sinking more heat into a heatsink does not magically make the heat disappear, it more efficiently transfers the heat on the input side, but you are still limited on the output side of the dissipation mechanism, those fans, and those fins are your limiting factor at the end of the day.
An aside on Dell’s warranty service
One of the G5’s I was somewhat responsible for someone buying died 3 days after purchase and required a motherboard replacement, I felt bad so I purchased some big high end warranty plan upgrade from Dell for them so it’d let them get in home service since its their only system. It went poorly, I ended up having to call Dell on their behalf and explain that, no, they’re not sending it to the depot, its getting fixed by a tech visit, etc, etc.
It was repaired, the tech had to take multiple attempts to get everything back together correctly.
Eventually, weeks later the owner and I decided to do a phone call where I walk them through the modifications outlined above, I send them all the tools and supplies, etc.
Here’s two big issues we found immediately.
That's the CPU on their G5 5505, the tech had used THE ENTIRE TUBE of thermal paste that came with the new motherboard, that picture is from AFTER they had scraped most of it off.
While going back and forth showing some example pictures, they sent me this and asked why it was different than the examples.
The tech seemingly left some packing material on the motherboard covering multiple of the vram chips, here it is after being peeled off.
I include this because this is what you are up against, and this is not just a Dell problem, HP isn’t any better, neither is Lenovo, etc, I deal with them enough as well.
This is why you should probably check your system and do a little maintenance to resolve any factory ‘installed’ issues.
submitted by Xipherisroot to DellG5SE [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 _TJDS_ Politico Requires Journos Push Pro-Israel Propaganda

Politico Requires Journos Push Pro-Israel Propaganda submitted by _TJDS_ to TheJimmyDoreShow [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Mesonicattic239 Layer separation on benchy? Specs in comments

Layer separation on benchy? Specs in comments submitted by Mesonicattic239 to FixMyPrint [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Slasher_7 Green lemon

Green lemon submitted by Slasher_7 to antimeme [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 stonkstwollz we are in the endgame bois

we are in the endgame bois submitted by stonkstwollz to teenagers [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Asian0820 34[M4F] Are you a busy person who's tired of dating around not finding what you're looking for? Are you wanting something physical, fun, flirty with lots of laughs without all the work and planning? If so, this post might be for you!

A lot of time and energy is put into dating. Looking at profiles and ads and going on dates looking for that special someone. If you're anything like me, you're busy with work and developing yourself but you still crave that intimate touch from someone. Or maybe you're just seeking something different. Whatever the case may be, I don't really want to know. I just want to know enough to know you're not a serial killer or crazy.
If you're seeking something purely physical, I would appreciate being up front about it. Ideally, we would know just the important stuff. Honesty is important. Clean, recent STD test. I would want us to discuss limits, things we're both into, things we're ok with. For example, I like enthusiasm. I want to know that the other person wants me. Be vocal about needing my cock, fingers, mouth, lips on or in your body. I also like making my partner orgasm. A lot. For me, part of the fun is seeing my partner exhausted and unable to even move from having so many orgasms. Kink friendly. If you have toys, cool! Open to trying new things. Hopefully, you are too! Vanilla is okay too.
After we've discussed things and we're meeting up regularly, I would not want to waste too much time with small talk. I would want us to get naked as soon as possible. It would be super hot if for example, I came over and you were already naked to greet me.
If this sounds like something you'd be interested in, I'd be happy to hear from you. If you have any questions, caveats, or even just feedback, I'd be down to discuss things.
submitted by Asian0820 to r4rSeattle [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Josticks Uhh ohh

Uhh ohh submitted by Josticks to comedyhomicide [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 0novanta Help on Peace Conference

So I, Japan, and my old friends Italy and German Reich were having a nice war against United Kingdom and all its friends, for maybe 10 years or so.
I invaded and conquered (but I guess not really annexed) some parts India, Afghanistan, Iran, pretty much all of Siberia, Australia, Indonesia, New Zealand, lots of isles and some territory here and there. I spent time building infrastructures, airports, ports, refineries, missiles sites, industries and everything else.
It was all nice and happy until at some point Italy decides it's time to end all of this happiness and in a couple of days destroys the United Kingdom, no more London, no more Big Ben.
So, it triggers the peace conference and since I was one of the main participants in the war (at least I guessed) I was hoping to score something big. But, not only, I found out that all those territories, I listed above, were not mine (meaning that they were put on the offering table) but in addition I couldn't make any request, not even to annex an useless part of Afghanistan, not even a microscopic island in the Indian Ocean. I had to click "Done" and I lost everything I've worked for.
Italy annexed pretty much all of Africa, and with German Reich, they divided Europe between them, which is understandable since they fought there, but they also made puppets all over Oceania (Indonesia, Australia, New Zealand), India too is become a puppet, and they annexed parts of Afghanistan and all isles in the Indian Ocean. Now, I'm fine with them taking Europe but Asia was mine!
How did it happen? Why couldn't I make any demands?
Is it maybe that Italy and Germany had more points than me? But THAT many? Or am I getting something wrong?
It is so frustrating to have spent countless hours building my empire and then in a couple of seconds I lose almost everything because of a peace conference where I can't make any requests.
submitted by 0novanta to hoi4 [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Kingpin_04 2 questions

Did anybody of you got the alien buiness battle and how to trigger the phantom car can it be triggered in solo session ?
submitted by Kingpin_04 to gtaonline [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 assetcontrol Onsie

Onsie submitted by assetcontrol to SFWNextDoorGirls [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Newt42069 Hey I tried to draw some anime, first time

Tell me what you think, I guess. Any tips for drawing hands? I had to hide them.
submitted by Newt42069 to AnimeSketch [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 jony122 lightdefi

This project was successfully and have good team members. The project gives people great applications of technology. it has good potential.i have confidence in the project. #crypto #blockchain #cryptocurrency #lightdefi #Defi #BEP20 #BSC #Binance
submitted by jony122 to cryptoairdropsbounty [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 harmanhar [Task] $20 | Someone in Paris Find me a good used iPhone 12 in Paris

I will be visiting Paris in couple of days. Need someone local or French to get me a good in warranty iPhone 12 pro through online sites like Phone should be in warranty for at least 2-3 months. Phone color preferably Gold, but if getting a good deal then Blue is also fine.
Should be at least 128 GB with new condition, no scratches.
Sellers should be genuine individuals. Your deliverable is Get me contact numbers of qualified sellers after vetting all these factors.
submitted by harmanhar to slavelabour [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 Totororo1 PIO cost

So I just find out PIO is not covered by my insurance, eventhough the cycle is. My insurances speciality pharmacy is charging me $230 for 6 50 ml vials (I'm in NYC). Anyone know any place cheaper?
I have my 1st beta tomorrow then again Tues. So I may not even need it...
I have a friend that donate her left over PIO to me so I'm ok for a few more days.
submitted by Totororo1 to IVF [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 homestead1111 when a school has a big maple tree and the leaves fall on the road into the sewer grate on the street and block it threatening flood into the property of a house across the street, who's responsibility is it to check the sewer daily or multi times daily ? the homeowner ,school, city?

submitted by homestead1111 to treelaw [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 HollowxMood ⛓🚧 New Edit of my last shooting! 🚧⛓

⛓🚧 New Edit of my last shooting! 🚧⛓ submitted by HollowxMood to warcorefashion [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 CryptoVines 🌱Plant Token🌱 Crypto Fiverr Platform Just Launched 🏪 Liquidity Locked 1yr 🔒 🎲 Weekly Lottery for Holders 🎲✅ Get Hired, Do work, Get paid in crypto☀️

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We are a token with a real use case in the future. We are currently building a freelance marketplace platform for the crypto community. Creating a space where both buyers and sellers can come to an agreement for their goods, service, NFT, or anything else.
We are currently pushing ahead with our marketing, and have influencers posting about us frequently. Our roadmap on our website shows you our progress in development. We are also currently writing our whitepaper, and soon will have a more updated website design.
Our community is built upon the basis of the token being completely transparent allowing investors to not worry. We have doxxed devs who are active on the telegram to help with any issues or questions you have. The Plant Token army continues to grow and getting stronger. The telegram is growing and active 24/7. The project is still very new and we currently have a low number of holders! Within a month we hope to have many more! We are growing fast and healthy, and hope to continue this into the future.

📝Token Information:
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☀️Symbol : PLANT
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☀️Total Supply : 161,211,420 $PLANT

✅Contract Address : 0xdC243F2cF20106B53C7b5A6fd4756C1a920a59DC

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🌱3% Donated To Charity
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submitted by CryptoVines to CryptocurrencyICO [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 LeftSugar Refractive Indexes

If the measured refractive index was at a temperature below 20 c, would a correction factor be added or subtracted to this?
submitted by LeftSugar to chemhelp [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 emci_cx Im proud (and broke)

Im proud (and broke) submitted by emci_cx to MangaCollectors [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 conantowen Let's be friends!

Man, I think I need some bi friends (like friends, not bfs or gfs). I'm a nerdy gamer boy. I like anime, road trips, playing guitar, and a napping. Before my back injury I also really enjoyed bicycling and swimming.
My DMs are open if we have any hobbies in common or you just wanna chit chat. I need more friends that aren't homophobes 🥺
Anyway, thank you for taking the time to read
submitted by conantowen to bisexual [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 crudelikechocolate Vaccine question

I’m trying to book an evaluation at a doggie daycare for my dog. They ask for Bivalent Influenza vaccine. Is that covered by DHPP? If not, I’ll need to schedule a vaccine for her. Thanks for the help! I tried to google but was overwhelmed by illnesses with similar names.
submitted by crudelikechocolate to DogAdvice [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 holdthebabyy When I send footage over to Media Encoder, all the footage looks like this. How do I fix it?

When I send footage over to Media Encoder, all the footage looks like this. How do I fix it? submitted by holdthebabyy to AfterEffects [link] [comments]

2021.10.21 14:57 ghostslikme First post here

First post here submitted by ghostslikme to OCDmemes [link] [comments]